Category: Travel

  • What to Wear When Pregnant and Traveling

    What to Wear When Pregnant and Traveling

    What to Wear When Pregnant and Traveling

    I wanted to look cute while traveling recently to France and Morocco, but I’m too far along to wear most of my regular stuff and I didn’t want to go out and buy a lot of new clothes. And now I’m posting this while on a quick trip New York. Really though, this post could have just been called “What to Wear When Pregnant,” as it’s pretty much the same thing — traveling or not! Two new pairs of cropped maternity pants have been the mainstay of my wardrobe, but some of what you see me wearing above is from when I was pregnant the first or second time around (or accessories that I’ve had for years), so I found suitable substitutes below.

    Dresses

    I think the easiest, and often most comfortable thing to wear when you’re pregnant is a dress. No weird elastic band around maternity pants to deal with (ugh), and you look instantly put together.

    Maternity Dresses

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    Tops and Bottoms

    Tunics and cropped pants have been my friends on these trips. Pants in black or white look dressier than jeans, and everything still goes with one or the other. A blazer was handy for chilly nights.

    Maternity Tops and Bottoms

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    Accessories

    Accessories keep me from getting bored with my limited maternity wardrobe, so I like to bring a lot of them with me on trips. And here’s my fashion public service announcement: Pregnant ladies (and ladies that just like good shoes for walking a lot), do yourself a favor and buy those Worishofer sandals. They’re old-lady orthopedic shoes that had their heyday of grandma-chic a couple of years ago, but they’re still cute and they are super comfy.

    Shoes and Accessories

  • Exploring Northern France: Dijon

    Exploring Northern France: Dijon

    Dijon, France

    I’m sharing more today from trip to Northern France! After first visiting Reims, we went to Dijon.

    Dijon, France - Architectural Details

    Nicole in Dijon, France

    A Church in Dijon, France

    The food was excellent (as it was everywhere in France, but especially at Loiseau des Ducs), and the food shopping was excellent too. The big marketplace we visited was bustling, and everything looked so fresh!

    Food Marketplace in Dijon, France

    Of course, you have to have Dijon mustard when in Dijon.

    Moutarde Maille (Dijon Mustard, in France)

    And more wine! More vineyards! This time, they’re producing Burgundies.

    Burgundy Vineyards Near Dijon, France

    Burgundy Wine in Dijon, France

    As we explored, it’s hard not to notice that everything is more charming in France. Take this perfectly adorable orange bicycle, in front of a perfectly lovely doorway, for example.

    A Cute Orange Bicycle in Dijon, France

    See also: a perfectly blue vintage car, in front of a perfectly lovely lunch spot.

    Vintage Blue Car in Poitiers, France

    Carol, Dave, and Jordan climbed the Tour Philippe le Bon, for a view of the town. It’s 150 feet high, and after climbing to the top of Reims Cathedral the day before, my six-months-pregnant belly and me were out. Instead, I went by myself to the Musée de la Vie Bourguignonne, which was just down the street from our hotel. I mean this in the best possible way — because I really liked it — the first floor was a little creepy. It was empty (though more people did filter through as I was there longer), and the first floor starts out with wax figures wearing period clothing, staged in sets, with French phrases in whimsical calligraphy floating across the glass displays of disembodied hands and other body parts.

    Musée de la Vie Bourguignonne, Dijon, France

    Musée de la Vie Bourguignonne, Dijon, France

    I was super into it. The second floor was equally interesting, albeit it in a less creepy, more conventional way. There were various recreations of old-fashioned shops.

    Musée de la Vie Bourguignonne, Dijon, France

    Musée de la Vie Bourguignonne, Dijon, France

    For a foolproof way to see the sights in Dijon, follow the Owl’s Trail. The Dijon Office of Tourism has maps with more information too, and you can follow short or long loops of the trail to see the historic city. And don’t forget to find the owl (La Chouette) on the corner of the Notre Dame in Dijon — rub it with your left hand and make a wish!

    The Owl's Trail in Dijon, France

    Church in Dijon, France

    Dijon, France

    Shopping inDijon, France

  • Exploring Northern France: Reims

    Exploring Northern France: Reims

    I was invited on a trip to Northern France (along with Jordan, Carol, and Dave) by the the French board of tourism. Initially, I was going to sum up the trip to Reims, Dijon, and Poitiers in one post, but I found myself wanting to include more photos — particularly of the Reims Cathedral — and decided to split things up a bit so I could go into more detail.

    Reims, France

    Reims is 45 minutes from Paris by high-speed train, and the city had an interesting feel to it. It’s charming and the buildings look aged, but much of the town was destroyed in the World War I, with additional damage taken in World War II. Most of what you see is (relative to the rest of France) newer construction.

    Reims, France

    Reims, France

    Fossier in Reims, France

    Reims, France

    If you like champagne, you probably already know this, but true champagne can only come from this region in France. The rest is ‘sparkling wine.’ It’s my favorite drink, so it was a bit of a bummer to be pregnant for this part of the trip. (“Non merci, je suis enceinte.”)

    Champagne in Reims, France

    I did enjoy learning about the process of making champagne (our time in the Taittinger cellar and on a tour went over everything from the grapes grown, the mixing of new and reserve juices, freezing the neck of the bottle to remove sediment, the aging process, and more), but I do wish I could have fully enjoyed the copious amount of champagne we were served while in the region. Champagne as an apertif! Champagne with dessert! In the dessert! Champagne with breakfast! You can even have champagne high up among the trees at Perching Bar.

    Perching Bar in Reims, France

    And then of course, if you’re looking for more to do in the area, there is the Reims Cathedral. I fell in love with it as a college student studying architectural history and had always dreamed of visiting.

    Reims Cathedral, France

    Along with the rest of the city, the Reims Cathedral suffered extensive damage during the first World War. The original roof was made of lead, and when the church burned, molten lead poured from the mouths of gargoyles situated high above along the perimeter. The horrific imagery was used as German propaganda supporting their cause, but the church survived and went on to be repaired in subsequent years. We were able to climb to the top, but getting there via a stone spiral staircase in one of the towers was not an easy feat. I’m so glad I did it, but at six months pregnant (and stupidly carrying my heavy camera equipment), I wasn’t sure I could make it! Every so often, you’re tricked into seeing light and thinking you might be done, but it turns out to be another window. The views were an amazing reward though, and it was fascinating to see the buttresses from above.

    View from the Top of the Reims Cathedral, France

    Reims Cathedral, France

    Beneath the Roof of the Reims Cathedral, France

    Only the cathedral in Chartres boasts more sculptural figures, and its beauty befit its importance as the site where many French kings were crowned. There is a statue of Joan of Arc, occupying the place she stood during the Coronation of Charles VII.

    Reims Cathedral, France

    Joan of Arc in the Reims Cathedral, France

    Joseph Campbell said this, on being in the Chartres Cathedral, and I felt it in Reims as well.

    I’m back in the Middle Ages. I’m back in the world that I was brought up in as a child, the Roman Catholic spiritual-image world, and it is magnificent … That cathedral talks to me about the spiritual information of the world. It’s a place for meditation, just walking around, just sitting, just looking at those beautiful things.

    I myself no longer identify as Catholic, but what I felt in the church was an overwhelming sense of beauty and awe. I wept.

    Reims Cathedral, France

  • Negotiating at the Souk

    Negotiating at the Souk

    It’s funny how we each have our own tactics. I’m in Marrakesh for a few days right now with friends and we’ve been navigating the souks. Our group speaks English and French, and a lot of the sellers here speak one or the other too (or both), in addition to Arabic, so communication has been easy. Negotiating here is expected — even respected when done well! Sometimes we have a bit more buying power as a group since it’s a larger potential sale, but everyone approaches the deal in their own way.

    I’ll share more of my trip to France and Morocco when I’m back home in Chicago and can go through my million photos, but I wanted to write about our experience negotiating here while it was still fresh in my mind.

    Rugs in the Marrakech Souk

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    Tactic 1
    This is me. It’s pretty apparent (to me, at least) that I have a Midwestern sensibility. Too nice! Too smiley! But I’ll calculate a good, fair price and not move too much from it (all while being very polite). If you want more than one thing, that’s a good bargaining chip. “I’ll take these, but only for this much. Otherwise just one.” I won’t disparage the goods, but rather say something like “I love it, but I can’t. Not unless you can sell it for this much.”

    Tactic 2
    You want the item, but eh! You can leave it. If you get a good deal you’ll take it. Start low, stay low, hold that hand out to shake for a deal, but keep driving it low until the very last second. Be a bit coy, a bit flirty, but ruthless at the same time.

    Tactic 3
    Take a simple and straightforward approach. Start way low, and be willing to come up in big jumps between counter-offers. Be kind but somewhat disinterested, and come to a quick agreement. “All right. Can you sell it for this much? That’s as much as I can do.” Done.

    Tactic 4
    Feign frustration and indifference. Start way low, point out that we can go elsewhere. “I bought some like this earlier today! Everyone has these — I can get a better price.” Be ready to walk away after a lot of time and haggling, even if you really want what you’re trying to get. Be difficult and very much not Midwestern. (It was fascinating for me to watch in action because I could never do it.) When the deal was done with a handshake, the guy said “you’re tough! Like the sellers here!” with a big smile.

     
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    Pink Rug from Morocco

    We’re all far from experts of course, but it’s interesting to see what works and what doesn’t. I had a sinking feeling that I wasn’t as good of a negotiator as I could have been (“damn it, you were too nice!”), but realized in the end that we each came away with about the same deal.

    We’re still here for little longer so it may be difficult for me to respond to comments, but I’d love to hear from you. Have you been to the souk before? Any tips and tricks on what worked for you?

  • Elkhorn Flea Market, WI

    Elkhorn Flea Market, WI

    I went to the Elkhorn Flea Market last Sunday, as planned. I took photos with my phone because I feel obnoxious with my big camera at flea markets, and sometimes I just don’t want to lug it around. I was there by myself, and I was there on a mission. I needed my hands free to carry the untold treasures I was sure to discover.

    Spin that wheel!

    Elkhorn Flea Market Finds

    I loved the spinning wheels, but they were way too expensive ($1850 for the big one). I wish I hadn’t missed out on the deacon’s bench though. I liked it, made a loop, came back to it, and it was marked as “sold.”

    Antique Deacon's Bench

    You’ll be glad to know that I passed on the following two paintings, both of which were huge and cheap. Hera with a lazy eye! I was into it.

    Old Paintings

    Lots of other good stuff, including vintage and antique stoves. So many old stoves.

    Magic Chef Vintage Stove

    More!

    Vintage Cabinets

    Elkhorn Flea Market Finds

    Vintage MCM Dining Chairs

    Antique Door Knobs and Plates

    Then I spotted what I had come for. Not literally, of course, as one doesn’t typically know in advance to be shopping for creepy old mannequins. It’s a feeling. A lovely warm feeling that you are buying something that will delight and confuse.

    Vintage Mannequins

    The guy wanted way too much for them, and I paid way too much for them, but less than what he was initially asking. As I told my sister later, it’s always worth it for weird things. (They’re super out of place in a residential setting, by the way.)

    Yay, Elkhorn! I’ll be back next year for sure.

  • Why We Bought Our Victorian House

    Why We Bought Our Victorian House

    How much of this have I shared already? I feel like I’ve touched on the reasons why we chose this house, but I don’t think I’ve told the whole story and I’d like to.

    You already know that it was the Wright Plus Housewalk that did us in. Here’s what I wrote at the time.

    “Brandon grew up in the Frank Lloyd Wright Historic District of Oak Park, and after walking around the area all day, I was charmed. We like our side of town, but if we can find an affordable house in the historic district that will work for our family, we’ll go for it. The smaller/outdated homes do pop up occasionally. We’re not in a hurry to move, but I suppose we ought to start preparing our house so that we’ll be ready when the right house hits the market.”

    What I didn’t mention then was that I had stopped in an open house at the end of the day. I had just toured nine private residences, but the house for sale was a charming painted lady Victorian (now our charming Victorian) and I thought “what’s one more?” I loved it, and when I got home, I asked Brandon what he thought about moving. He wasn’t interested in picking up and moving clear across the country (ahem, San Francisco), but he was excited about looking for a new place here in town. I told him about the open house, and we talked about how nice it would be if we could find something like it. We weren’t considering this house an option at that point because we thought it was out of our price range. The seed was planted, but we thought we’d take our time.

    “There are still things to do to this house, and I think Brandon would be happy staying put. It’s a great house, and we’ve made it really nice over the last six years, but there’s only so much we can do before we start to over-improve a property. If we knew we were going to stay in our home for another six years, we wouldn’t worry about it, but I’m ready for new projects. A new adventure! And when I talked to Brandon about it, he agreed that he was ready too. We’ll be looking for a new home, here in Oak Park, but hopefully in one of the historic districts.”

    Location

    We did still love our side of town. Oak Park is somewhat divided in half, north side vs. south side. The north side is generally considered the more desirable part of town, though I’d argue that the south side is where is at. There’s the Arts district, the L (Blue Line), and an amazing park and pool with a conservatory across the street. The houses are cute, and there are tons of families with kids. (Families that still want to live near downtown Chicago but desire better schools often flock to either Evanston or Oak Park.)

    At the center of Oak Park though, are the historic districts. There’s the aforementioned Frank Lloyd Wright district, and just across the tracks, the Ridgeland district. Both are still an easy walk to the L (the Green Line this time) or Metra, and there are parks, the main branch of the library, cute shops, and a lot of great restaurants. There are still plenty of families with kids, but the houses are more architecturally distinct — hence the historic demarcation. This walking tour of FLW in Oak Park can give you an idea of what some of the homes look like in the area. (Also, please note #16, the Oscar Balch house. No relation!)

    Now that we’re here, we take that walking tour pretty regularly.

    Morning Walk

    Frank Lloyd Wright's Home and Studio

    Size, and the Market

    Comparison of House Footprints (to Scale)Our new house is larger (it is 3100 sq ft) than the last, but we weren’t moving for lack of space. The records list our old house at 1600 square feet, but that doesn’t include the finished basement. We really had more like 2200 square feet of liveable space, and we hadn’t outgrown it. We also hadn’t completely finished the home or run out of projects. The real estate market here was picking up though, especially for ‘starter homes’ like ours.

    After touring a ton of houses for sale, we realized how badly we wanted the Victorian, and Brandon and I scrambled to get our house on the market. We accepted an offer after five days and 16 showings, with another dozen upcoming showings that we then cancelled. We broke even when we sold, after you factor in the major upgrades we put into the home. It would have been nice to turn a healthy profit, but there are homes here and across the country selling at a loss, so we’re grateful to have made our money back. We had enough equity in the house (our initial down payment in 2007 came mostly from an inheritance) that we were able to put a large down payment on the new home, and still set some aside for initial projects alongside a rainy day fund.

    New Projects!

    We were long past the initial move-in phase at our old house, and I’d written before about how I missed that early frenzy of activity. The rush of possibilities! The chance to start anew! Our first house was similar in a lot of ways to the apartment Brandon and I shared years ago, but my taste had changed a little, as it’s always changing a little. (Wouldn’t it be a bore if we never tried anything new?)

    Brandon and I assumed we would wait for a fixer-upper of a house, thinking it would be more affordable. And come on, you guys are no dummies! A new house equals new projects, which equals blog content. That was another good reason to buy a fixer-upper. I have a solid skill-base from my days long ago as a handyman’s assistant, and I’m always willing to jump in and learn how to do something new. So we searched for something with solid bones, but that needed some love. The problem with that is that almost all of the houses in Oak Park are at least a hundred years old, and the ones that need a little love usually need a LOT of love. (Exhibit A. Exhibit B.) We wanted a house that we can live in while doing the renovations — nothing dangerous for the kids to be exposed to or that would be uninhabitable for a period — that would provide plenty of projects.

    But it turns out we fell in love with a house that was already in good shape, that was already beautiful. We can’t let the blog completely dictate our lives, to the point of walking away from a house in the location we wanted, that we could afford, and that we were crazy about, because it was too nice. The electrical and plumbing have been redone already — a huge plus. I love the wood trim here. I even like a lot of the wallpaper. There are always going to be things to do in an old (very old) house and of course there are plenty of projects, but we’re starting from a fantastic base. It would have been silly to turn down a house that was so right for our family because it wasn’t what I thought would be the right kind of blog fodder.

    The Kids

    Eleanor and August took to this house immediately. When we first brought up the idea of moving into a new house, Eleanor requested that we buy “a rainbow house.” We took the kids with us to each property that we toured, but this Victorian is the one that she deemed worthy of The Rainbow House moniker. There is a closet with two entrances that she and August think is a secret passage. The nook on the third floor with the stained glass window is another such secret passage, made even better by the fact that the door is scaled to their size. They call that “the rainbow room” — fitting, for a rainbow house.

    They talked about this place constantly after seeing it. It’s nice that they fell in love with the same house as their parents! And here, they will go to the same schools that Brandon and his sisters did as children. The floor plan has several loops (give me a Victorian over an open-concept any day) that they love to run. The clawfoot tub is just right for bubble baths, and they can reach the sinks without a step stool — a small detail, but one that makes them happy. Their rooms are perfect for them, and we all love going for walks in the neighborhood. This house is the right one for us for so many reasons, and I feel really lucky to be here.

    We hope to be here for a long, long time.